The heat is paralysing. I am staying inside most of the day, either at home or at the DAAD, both air conditioned. All my energy seems to be gone… This is worrying me. I am hiding inside. Waiting. For what? Until the summer is over?
I am meeting “our Architecture Student” at 6 at MäcDonalds. The spot where the Westerner, according to some German Journalist, can apparently escape to familiar territory. The cool air, the same BigMacs as at home. Nearly home…
Every German writing about Caucasus/Azerbaijan (or at least the articles/books I have read so far), are obsessed with two topics. Zynically they observe the behaviour of the Westerner and their own, on a desperate search for “home” and “order”. Why is it such a big issue? - I don’t know it yet.
Because first of all Baku seems not so different to “our world” (at least not so different to mine), compared to other non European countries. Baku is Eurasia.
Nevertheless “Westerners” a sticking together as it seems. Most of them wont learn the language, as they speak English at work, and language is home. Therefore there have to be other means to create “home” (…to continue the stereotypical analysis of my countrymen and journalist collegues).
Bars and Restaurants can definately create a zone of familiarity. One of them might be Mac Donalds (I doubt it though), and one is probably the Irish Pub, which I visited on the weekend myself. An Irish Pub in Baku yes! Well, probably they are everywhere by now, but coming straight from Dublin, I was kind of touched…
4 Azeri musicians were playing Irish Traditional music quite convincingly and some of the visitors, obviously Westerners, were tapping with their feet or even clapping, drinking their pint on deep lether benches in front of the dark timber cladded pub-interior, dreaming of “home”… (maybe)
Outside tough, the manager, a big Azeri guy - sweating because the airconditioner collapsed - had not much in common with an Irish pub owner…
Others may make Baku their home by making friends with a particular street musician, who will always be there at the same spot ready for the daily greeting and smalltalk.
Others, like our Architect contact person, have the chance to let “home” become stone and built their own house in the way they want it. With Western safety standards, materials, aesthetics, comfort and neighbours…
Or they might even have the chance (as bespoke architect) to create more restaurants/cafes for themselves and others who look for western atmosphere, temperature and food…
I haven’t found home here yet. This would be too much to expect after 1 week. But definately I am trying learn Azeri, to at least be able to have a conversation with the people here.
